Tuesday, February 12, 2013

Snapshots: Slazburg, Vienna, and Prague

Here are some snapshots to give you a taste of the rest of my travels over winter break.

For the second leg of our trip we went from Salzburg to Vienna Austria to waltz in the New Year. I had to get to Vienna to try the elusive sacre torte, and hand crafted apple strudel.

We missed out first train from Munich to Salzburg due to my indecisiveness in picking out a postcard, but eventually we made it to the land of Mozart and The Sound of Music. Despite never having seen the Sound of Music I enjoyed our sing-along bus tour through the snow blanketed country side where the movie was filmed.
Mozart Bridge
Town of St. Gilgen
Sound of Music Gazebo: "I am Sixteen going on seventeen"
Sound of Music: church from the wedding scene in the town of Mondsee

Mirabell Gardens
The Bus
Castle atop of Salzburg
So long, Farewell, Auf Wiedersehen, Goodbye- off to Vienna by train
Authentic Italian restaurant with only a verbal menu with 3 options. There was no room in the dining room, so the chefs who were also the waiters and hostesses created a space for us to eat in the kitchen- dream come true!
Zaunerkipferl- croissant with nuts and cinnamon, toasted and served with butter and jelly
Viennse square noodles
Cream of red cabbage soup with breadcrumb dumplings
Apfelstrudel mit Vanilla Sauce

St.Stephens Cathedral
Buchtel- Melt in your mouth dough with plum marmalade
Sacre Torte at Demel Café


Pulling dough to make strudel
New Years dresses
Cant believe it! In love with the apartment we stayed at photo.
Vienna’s café’s definitely lived up to the hype; beautifully adorned ceilings, large chandeliers and a grand piano with live music. I felt like royalty stepping back in time. We even experienced the notorious arrogance of the café waiters first hand. When splitting the check 7 ways, coins were inevitably involved. Our neglectful and inattentive waiter refused our money, saying, “This is for the birds. You can take this to McDonald’s.” After arguing with him that money is money, he threw the coins back at us and we left.
Other sightseeing in Vienna included the office where Freud came up with his theories, walking the Ringstarsse (loop of parliament, the library, opera house and museums.) We window shopped at the cute boutiques on Nuebergasse street, saw the white stallions in the world famous Spanish riding school and lastly toured the Schonbrunn Palace.
Parliment
Building on the Ringstarsse
National Library
Some other highlights of Vienna included an interrogation by the police and almost getting arrested for writing our names on a building wall that had been lined with paper for drawing.

Just minutes before our bus left from Vienna to Prague on New Years Day one of my worst European fears came true. I was locked in a bathroom in a deserted subway station. After working myself up to tears, and profusely hyperventilating I heaved my body into the door repeatedly until I was able to unlatch the hook. With only minutes to spare before the bus departed for Prague I sprinted back to the bus station just in time...pheww!

PRAGUE
Prague also know as the “Paris of the East,” definitely exceeded my expectations.

The first night that we arrived we randomly stumbled into a quaint restaurant on a side street called Lokal. I indulged in a large, frothy beer (brewed at Lokal of course,) bread dumplings, sweet steamed cabbage, hand crafted rye bread, and mashed potatoes with friend onions. The large portions we received were created with such simple ingredients, yet packed with flavor. The sweet cabbage literally melted in my mouth. I mixed all the food together and was dunking the dumplings into various sauces to soak up all the flavors. I also sampled banana, and black cherry beer.

After dinner we went for a walk to digest when we caught a glimpse of a gleaming Christmas tree in the distance. We all liked arms like in The Wizard of Oz and skipped towards the Christmas market. After our disappointment that the markets were closed in Germany, we couldn’t contain ourselves. There were stalls filled with workers drilling potatoes to fry, grilling meats, churning nuts in sugar, flipping crepes and rolling out Trdelnik (a sweet pastry native of Hungry.)

Trdelnik twirling over charcoal flames
Kebobs
Drilling potatoes
Stalls
Christmas Lights
Trdelnik filled with Nutella and rolled in nuts and sugar
Over the next few days we went on a walking tour to learn the vast history of the Czeck Republic, and the great city of Prague. We viewed the astronomical clock, walked the Charles Bridge, hiked up to the Prague castle, wrote on the Lennon Wall, toured the Jewish quarter, and saw “The Barber of Sevilla” at the National Opera house.
Astronomical Clock
Jewish Cemetary
Writing in my journal
Charles Bridge
Prague Castle
Rooftops
Lennon Wall
Dancing House
The opera house
Very confusing currency
Overall, our journey went pretty smoothly, mainly due to all the advice I was given by my trusted friend, the world traveler Rick Steves (I like to pretend I know him personally, since I spend so much time reading his books and watching his series.)  I am really fortunate to have had the incredible opportunity to travel through 3 countries with good company and create lifelong memories.

I was thankful to get back to Sevilla, for a good night (snore free) of sleep in my own bed.  We made it back just in time to witness the cabagata (parade) for the Reyes Magos on Three Kings Day, where I was repeatedly pegged in the head with hard candies being thrown from the floats passing by, and practically trampled down by packs of horses.



Sunday, January 20, 2013

Marvelous München

First off, happy new year!

I have to apologize for my delay in blogging; I have been keeping busy the past few weeks, and just the thought of trying to summarize my 2 weeks traveling though Eastern Europe has been overwhelming.

I guess the best place to begin is with some adjectives. Exhausting, enlightening, and extraordinary; these are just a few words that come to mind when I reflect upon my winter break excursion as a whole.

We began our trip flying from Sevilla to Munich, Germany on Christmas Eve. I had only one idea on my mind for Munich; beer halls, beer gardens and pretzels. Unexpectedly I was blown away with all the history and beauty the Bavarian region of Germany has to offer; friendly people, fairytale castles, the foothills of the Alps, lush greenery, beautiful architecture, and flavorful food.
I should mention that when it comes to hostels I am very apprehensive about staying in them. My uneasiness is largely due to prior experiences as well as a fear of bed bugs, thus I was hesitant to spend 13 nights hostel hopping. Fully prepared this time around I packed a body bag, eye mask, quick drying towel, pillow and blanket (thank you Air Berlin,) but unfortunately nothing could have prepared me for the hostel experiences that we endured.

We arrived at our hostel around midnight, and upon entering our room we were welcomed by a naked French man named Mousse, coming off a high of some sort, and Elvis, his drug dealer from Kingston, Jamaica.

Like clockwork every half hour, Elvis (aka Kingston,) jumped in and out of our shared bunk bed all night long, turning on the lights, aggressively scratching his body, and threatening Mousse to a beat down multiple times.

Unable to sleep at all Brie, Becca and I left the hostel at the crack of dawn to start our self-guided walking tour of the city. With the streets empty and all the stores closed we were able to walk free of crowds in Munich’s pedestrian and busiest shopping area, allowing us to see the magnificent buildings and cathedrals up close.

We walked to Marienplatz, the largest public square in Munich. We saw Neues Rathaus, the New City Hall and its clocktower called the Glockenspiele, which chimes twice a day and reveals a short performance with dancing medieval figurines.
We walked all through town, and eventually ended at the old English Gardens, a very large urban park spanning over 3 miles long. There is even a stream that runs through the park, creating a perpetual wave where locals surf. We were told that usually the park is lined with newd sunbathers, but being the middle of January no one was braving the cold.
We ate crepes, sampled mugs of gluhwein (spiced hot wine,) munched on roasted nuts at the Christmas market, and of course went to the famous beer hall called the Hofbräuhaus. In a large hall, sitting at a picnic table underneath an elaborate mural ceiling, we ate asiago cheese pretzels, drank radlers (a bitter beer mixed with lemonade,) and listened to men dressed in the traditional lederhosen playing horned instruments.
"prost" (cheers)
Hofbräuhaus
Crepes with banana, nutella, almonds, and kinder bar
gluhwein
After another sleepless night (this time due to snoring roommates,) we woke up early and headed on a 10.5 hour tour to see the infamous castles constructed by “Mad” King Ludwig II in the Bavarian country side, ultimately replicated by Disney. We first toured the Linderhof castle. There was a fresh coat of snow on the ground and the beginnings of the foothills of the Alps, scenery I was elated to see. Next we stopped in a typical Bavarian town to see the onion-domed churches and of course for the essential midmorning pastry and coffee. From there we went to the town of Hohenschwangau to see the infamous Neuschwanstein castle nestled away in the mountaintops.
Neuschwanstein 
Onion dome
Snow fight!
 Linderhof gate
For our final day in Munich we went to tour the Dachau concentration camp. Our tour guide Mucin was incredibly knowledgeable and passionate, entrancing me for 5 hours straight, despite standing in the pouring rain and high winds.

Although a somber and intense day it gave the rest of the trip a sense of meaning. There is a lot of information that I have learned throughout life, but nothing compares to seeing the camp firsthand. I went through a whole range of unsettling emotions from disbelief and sadness to feelings of relief and hope. I won’t go into more details, because it was truly an eye opening and humbling experience, one that I believe everyone should have for themselves and in their own manner.
Gates of Dachau"Arbeit Macht Frei" (Work Makes You Free)
Entrance to Dachau
On an unrelated note if you ever have the chance to go to Munich reserve some time to wander around the central train station, Hauptbahnhof. There is a dazzling array of cuisines from all around the world and more types of pretzels than you could ever dreamed possible. Also I recommend eating at the Augustiner Brewery, a lively restaurant that offers simple dishes and large portions (including the beer) that are unbelievably flavorful. The basic meat and potato dishes really highlighted how rich and fragrant German cuisine is.

Bread dumpling in a mushroom cream sauce
Potato dumpling and pork knuckle
Pretzels with various seeds

Friday, December 21, 2012

Happy Holidays


For all you readers out there, this will be my last blog post until the New Year as I am headed on an epic winter break trip to Munich, Salzburg, Vienna and Prague. Get excited for my next post, which I am sure will be a detailed and thrilling synopsis of my 12 days through Eastern Europe. 

Until then I leave you with some more photos of Sevilla at Christmas time and, un monton de besitos
A melting ice skating rink, and Ferris wheel at the fair next to my house. Bottom right corner is the view from my porch



Roscon de Reyes con nata- popular holiday dessert with toys hidden in the whipped cream
Government building with a Christmas show projected onto it.
Oreo truffles I made for my co-workers
Happy Holidays!


Monday, December 17, 2012

Gibraltar - Sort of


Gibraltar is a British colony, located at the southern edge of the Iberian Peninsula, bordering Andalucía, the region of Spain that I live in.

I have been talking about visiting Gibraltar since before I even came to Spain. It’s only place in the world where you can see the Mediterranean Sea and Atlantic ocean meet, as well as the panoramic views of two continents at the same time. There is also a large colony of apes that inhabit the “Rock of Gibraltar,” that I have been dying to take a picture with. As an added bonus, Gibraltar is also known for duty-free shopping.

After a cancelled trip a few months ago, I accepted an invitation to go to Gibraltar with my co-worker Alicia. Long story short, I heard the monkeys are prone to stealing valuables from tourists, therefore I didn’t bring my passport, knowing that I wouldn't be able to go on my winter break trip next week if anything were to happen to it. I showed my New York State drivers license at customs and was inevitably denied entry.

I told Alicia to go ahead without me; we had driven almost 3 hours to get there after all. I spent the day walking around the Spanish town La Linea, and ate a deliciously juicy tostada con tomate’, that dribbled all down my chin; good thing I was dining alone.

Overall I made the best of the day. From a distance, I saw the “Rock of Prudential” the Strait of Gibraltar , and the contour of Africa through the fog. Most importantly I took the leap and went by myself on a full day excursion speaking only in Spanish. I learned the words to traditional flamenco music in the car,  and went shopping on the way home in Jerez de la Frontera, a province of Cádiz.



Monday, December 10, 2012

Hanukkah


After a crazy night out on Saturday with my co-workers, I have finally shaken my hangover…. it’s a Hanukkah miracle.

Feeling much better, Becca and I made latkes, and matzo ball soup to celebrate the first night of Hanukkah. I even was able to skype in my parents for the blessings over the candles.
Ill take a nutella filled churro over sufganiyot (jelly donuts) any Hanukkah
Frank (my brothers friend) Mom and Dad, Skyping with Becca and I, with Becca's mom on Skype as well.

Sunday, December 9, 2012

The Hump

According to a few articles I have come across about living abroad, there is a bell curve of psychological phases that you go through while living abroad.

From what I can tell the “hump effect” is indeed real and unavoidable. Based on my calculations I have been in Spain for exactly 3 months and 6 days. The honeymoon phase has passed, and I am slowly moving uphill towards the top of “the hump.”


I found an apartment, made some friends, started work, joined a gym and have found a good balance of keeping in contact with everyone in the States.


Now I am in the adaptation phase, which brings me to an update on how things are going at school. Finally, I have a routine. My anxiety about missing the bus, and making it to school on time have ceased. I have researched all my options and routes to Tomares so in an scenario, including a rainy morning I will make it to work.

Everyday I wake up at 8:20am. I hop on a bike at the rental station right outside my house (and pray that the gears work, since usually they are stuck in the highest gear.) I ride 20 minutes until I reach Plaza de Armas, the bus station. Usually disheveled from biking so quickly, I try to quickly recompose myself before getting on the bus for my 20 minute ride.
Sevici- the bikes I use to go all around town
Recently I have been bumping into my school headmaster on the bus. Strangely she pretends not to recognize me until we get off at the same stop and acts surprised to see me every time.

At school everyday has proven to be completely different. I have 14 different classes that I rotate through Monday- Thursday and every teacher instructs class differently.

After two full months of teaching I feel comfortable and confident. I have no reason to panic about anything, the Spaniards don’t, so why should I? I have gotten into the swing of lesson planning and private tutoring on the side, but learning to disciple my students is still a work in progress.

Along with being in mid-adaptation stage, I find myself easily bothered by small things. Looking back now, I cant help but to laugh about what I have been complaining about. Here is a small taste of what I have learned to adapt to while living in Sevilla.

 “You know you are in Spain when…”



  1. When EVERYTHING is closed at 2 in the afternoon for siesta

2.  When you finally stop resenting everything being closed for siesta.

  1. When you feel like your English gets worse as your Spanish improves (you may also find yourself speaking in British English.)
  2. When you forget how to say something you learned just 30 seconds ago.
  3. When red wine only costs .99 cents and still tastes like a 10Euro bottle.
  4. When all the food that is unhealthy is labeled “digestive” so you don’t feel bad about eating a few portions of cookies everyday.
  5. When the sun finally comes out after 5 days of rain and you are overjoyed because you can finally dry your laundry.
  6. When you complain about only having a 3-day weekend.
  7. When a 3 hour work day is exhausting (but really it is! Between commuting, and switching between Spanish and English every few minutes you get tired easily. Also deciphering the thick Anadulucian accent is an immediate prescription for a headache.)
  8. When stopping at a red light is more of a suggestion, rather than the law.
  9. When there is only one cashier, taking her sweet time at the grocery store to check you out (as a veteran cashier, who has won prizes at Wegmans for achieving the highest items per minute, you can imagine how angry this makes me.)
  10. When it rains and the Spaniards have no sense of umbrella etiquette or personal space. (Seriously I’ve almost lost an eye.)
  11. When you finally remember to always carry toilet paper with you everywhere. Due to the economic crisis bathrooms are never going to have TP, even at school.
  12. When you wear  mittens, a scarf, a hat, and your northface in the house, but once you step outside you realize its warmer than inside your house.
  13. When you walk into Starbucks and are surrounded by Americans in Northfaces, using Apple products, me included.